Apart from jaw-dropping snow-clad Himalayan peaks, Kumaon is blessed with innumerable ancient caves, mountain hideaways and spiritual centres
BY SUBHASISH CHAKRABORTY
Uttarakhand, popularly referred to as “Devbhumi” or the abode of gods is indeed at the forefront, positioning itself as New India’s ultimate wellness tourism hotspot. And the Kumaon region in particular is beautifully unravelling both its geographical as well as its ancient spiritual treasures to today’s jaded traveller.
Apart from jaw-dropping snow-clad Himalayan peaks like Nanda Devi, Chaukhamba, Panchachuli, Kamet, Kumaon is blessed with innumerable ancient caves, mountain hideaways and spiritual centres, which have none of the frills associated with commercial tourism. These spiritual centres have remained graciously hidden from the crass commercial touristic purviews of contemporary travel trends.
Not many are aware that the Kriya Yoga capital of the world is located in Kumaon’s Dunagiri region where Mahavatar Babaji, an ageless yogi who has transcended the physical limitations of the “body-mind” setup and is believed to have been in existence ever since the dawn of the universe, has his holy cave tucked away in this part of the Himalayas.
Kriya Yoga is an ancient meditative practice, which was first highlighted to the world by Paramahansa Yogananda through his immensely popular book Autobiography of a Yogi, wherein he introduced to the world the existence of the ageless yogi, Mahavatar Babaji.
As a spiritual practitioner, I feel fortunate to be residing in Kalyani in the District of Nadia, which is in close proximity to Ghurni, the birthplace of Lahiri Mahashaya (Shyama Charan Lahiri) who was the foremost disciple of Mahavatar Babaji. It was in Dunagiri cave of Kumaon Himalayas where Mahavatar Babaji first met Lahiri Mahasaya, taught him the nuances of Kriya Yoga and bestowed on him the responsibility of spreading the fragrance of yoga to the world.
No wonder, I cherished this intense desire to visit Dunagiri cave and have a first-hand experience of the yogic vibes.
A couple of month’s back, on the invitation of a Kumaoni friend from Almora, I finally made up my mind to visit Kumaon and spend time at Dunagiri just to feel the divine presence of great souls like Mahavatar Babaji, Lahiri Mahashaya and other Kriya Yogis who are silently practicing this ancient system of yoga for the emancipation of this world and thereby creating a new world order based on the tenants of Kriya Yoga.
Pahadi Kumaon hospitality touched my heart. I stayed at Wood Villas cottages in Dhamas, 20 kilometres away from Almora. At an elevation of 1,424 metres above sea level, it was the perfect Himalayan hideout from where one can bask in the surreal sights of the distant snow-clad Himalayan peaks, the clouds drifting by and colourful packs of Himalayan avian species flying in unison, thereby creating an extraordinary symphony that only the Himalayas can offer.
Wooden Villas and Chalets offer an aesthetic charm which is timeless. They radiate harmony and are remarkably sustainable. The architectural finesse is every bit European and each independent villa is wholly constructed out of wood, a rarity in the Indian context.
Before embarking on our trip to Dunagiri, I went to Kasar Devi Hill, one of the world’s rarest places and a NASA-certified Van Allen Belt. This hill is synonymous with very high levels of geomagnetic rays that aids both in revitalising and rejuvenating the body-mind-soul system in a perfect cosmic symphony that benefits whosoever takes the plunge of spending time in contemplation of the divine.
After offering puja to Mata Kasar Devi, regarded as one of Devi Durga’s form, Devi Kattayini, I ventured towards the Akhand Jyoti or The Eternal Flame where there is an exclusive Havan Kund and I could see the wooden logs burning. The aroma of the smoke emanating from the kund felt divine and purifying. According to the temple’s priest, there is a belief that the ash of the Havan Kund has magical properties in curing people who suffer from mental illness.
After an early morning breakfast, I commenced my journey by road to Dunagiri, an 85-kilometre drive through mountain roads from Almora that can be covered in four-and-a-half hours.
After refreshing ourselves at a roadside restaurant, we walked along the zigzag mountain path leading towards Mahavatar Babaji’s cave, tucked away on the Pandukholi Mountain. And, each step I took, the realisation of a long cherished spiritual desire to come on a pilgrimage to Dunagiri and bask in the spiritual vibes of this holy cave, where countless yogis from ancient times found spiritual fulfilment made me feel truly enamoured.
Once inside, I chose a spot where I could incline my back to the cave wall for support. I meditated for an hour or so and it was twilight by the time I came out; the red molten ball dipping across the snowy Himalayan peaks made for a truly surreal setting – an elixir I will relish for the rest of my life.
Due to time constraints, I couldn’t stay overnight at the neighbourhood Dunagiri Retreat, was conceived of by Piyush Kumar, a former World Bank executive who felt the perennial need of a retreat centre at Dunagiri that would cater to the needs of Kriya Yoga practitioners who faced incredible hardships to come this far.
This is a one-of-a-kind yoga retreat which embodies the ethos of sustainability. Be it preserving the fragile Himalayan eco-system of Dunagiri or providing sustainable livelihoods to Kumaoni locals, the retreat sets a stellar example of carbon neutral tourism in the Himalayas.
Piyush oversees the day-to-day operations of the retreat and, being a widely travelled man, he sets very high standards on eco-tourism practices. “Promoting dignified, sustainable livelihoods, enhancing local education, providing healthcare, and exploring harmonious coexistence with nature have been our focus,” he says. “We aim to show how every element, from stones to wildlife, can joyously coexist.”
Dunagiri Retreat offers 23 well-appointed rooms, a spacious yoga hall as well as a serene pyramid meditation hall that can easily host up to 50 guests. No wonder then that the retreat has earned worldwide popularity for its amazing array of yoga sessions, workshops and meditation congregations.
Having tasted the spiritual nectar of Mahavatar Babaji’s cave and fulfilling my desire to connect with Lahiri Mahasaya’s lineage, I will be visiting Dunagiri again for an extended stay at the Dunagiri Retreat and take part in one of retreat’s transformative and Inner Healing workshops.
For now, I will take away with me the sheer sense of vastness and mesmerising views of the Himalayas and the ever-changing skyline.
